Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Leopardy Legs!

This week (20th - 26th April) I'm taking part in the Kids Clothes Week sewing challenge (as I explained here). I've taken part in two KCW challenges previously, and at the end of each of those I published a summary post sharing all the things I made during those weeks. I then wrote more detailed posts for each of the garments I made afterwards. This time I'm switching things around: I'm going to write individual posts for the garments I make as I go, and then write a summary post next week. I'm doing this for pretty boring blog post scheduling reasons; I've got a lot of posts I want to share on the run up to and throughout Me-Made-May. So anyway, let's get on with why we're here: I made a frikkin' garment.


I've talked about how awesome Ottobre magazine is many times before. I have seven issues, and four of those are proving particularly useful, my most recent acquisition, the Spring 1/2015 issue (pictured below) being one of them. 

I like to put Dolores in garments made from knit fabric so she can scamp around unimpeded. I've made sooo many pairs of the Playful Kitty leggings that it's ridiculous (and now getting a bit boring to make them), so I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a knit-trouser pattern variation. The streaky legs sweatpants pattern (pictured below) looked like a fun alternative to leggings: nice and roomy for playing in and certainly spacious enough to accommodate a nappy! 

The pattern consists of three pieces, a whole two pieces more than the Playful Kitty leggings pattern (!), but I tried not to let that put more off! It's still a crazy simple garment project: a front cut on the fold, a back cut on the fold (although mine has a seam running down the centre back because of fabric limitation) and a pair of ankle cuffs. 

If I had to find a negative about this pattern, I'd say it isn't the most efficient child's trousers pattern ever, in terms of fabric usage. I'd consider making a centre back seam in other versions in the future, like this leopard print pair has (see below), except the centre back seam was made for me in this case as it existed in the original skirt that I made these from.  

Dolores is a bit of a skinny-malinx, so I combined sizes: size 80 for the width, and 86 for the length. They are currently a bit big for her, but I'm pleased with that as I want her to get maximum use from them. 

I constructed them entirely in my overlocker, omitting the (IMO weird) topstitching detail that's meant to go round the crotch seam. The only bit that my regular sewing machine got involved in was stitching the casing to feed the elastic through. I recently got a new sewing machine that can do stitches I hadn't previously tried before, so I used a lightening flash stitch (which is really narrow but has more stretch-ability than a normal straight stitch) and was really pleased with the result. Normally I stitch my elastic round the waist with a three-step zigzag. That stitch has lots of stretch but because the stitch goes through the actual elastic, the waist size can't be adjusted at a later date without an epic unpicking session. I'll definitely use the lightening flash/elastic tunnel method again.


You know me, almost always stash-bustin' or refashioning where possible. And this project was no exception. I bought a large knit pencil skirt from a charity shop towards the end of last year with the intention of remaking it for myself. The original skirt was more or less a knee-length tube with an elasticated waist. I used the Colette patterns Mabel skirt pattern (see here for my conclusions on that), but I wasn't particularly happy with the outcome. Although pretty thick, the fabric was much more drapey than the striped fabric of my other Mabel version/s and the leopard Mabel came out wayyyy too big. By that point I was pretty much over the Mabel skirt pattern, so stashed the skirt away to remake into something for Dolores.

As I say, this leopard knit fabric is actually really drapey. The streaky legs sweatpants pattern calls for sweatshirt fabric, but I think this floppy leopard stuff gives the pattern quite a harem pants type look. The leopard skirt wasn't big enough to cut the front, back and cuffs from it, so the cuffs ended up being cut from a small piece of black jersey that I had left over from a big piece that became many other garments (including my black Dolores batwing tunic and 3/4 length sleeved Bronte top). I'd like to make this sweatpants/trousers pattern again in something thicker and more sturdy like sweatshirting for the winter, but I wonder if they'd be as comfy and if a thicker fabric would feel really bulky between the legs due to the dropped crotch style. 


As you can see from the picture above, Dolores wasn't quite sure about them initialy! I put them on her and she kind of stared at them for a while, I guess trying to figure out what was going on down there. She seemed to get over them fairly quickly though and got on with her usual high levels of busy-ness. And me? I love them! I'm super pleased that a charity shop score that was then turned into a FAIL eventually became a fun and wearable garment. It'll take a few 'proper' wears (rather than this little test/modelling sesh) to see if this style really is functional, or if the bagginess around the crotch creates some problems, like when she's strapped into her pushchair perhaps. 

Does anyone else have any experience of putting their kids in this style of trousers? Any problems caused by the dropped crotch?

Monday, 20 April 2015

Leopard Print Jenna Cardigan

Using the forth-coming Me-Made-May challenge as a catalyst, I finally got round to doing something I've been wanting to do for ages: make a cardigan. I wear cardigans ALL THE TIME, usually secondhand fine knit type ones. I would love to start introducing some handmade ones in there as well because A) I want to have made as much of my own clothing as possible, and B) I hate relying on shops, even charity shops, for any particular type of garment because the joy of having complete design control is hard to give up once you've tasted it!

The first ever self-made cardigan I had was the infamous Saint cardigan (RIP) which saw soooo much wear in its lifetime. Back in 2010 I self-drafted that pattern because at the time there weren't any great cut-and-sew cardigan patterns out there. If the Jenna pattern had been available then, I probably wouldn't have bothered, so I was forced to exercise my pattern making skills despite my lazy nature!

Returning to 2015: rather than referring back to my pattern cutting skillz to come up with a new cardigan pattern, I wanted to have the thinking done for me this time. I already owned the Julia cardigan pattern from participating in Perfect Pattern Parcel #6's blog tour, which I went as far as printing out and sticking together. I then stopped to google other people's experiences of the pattern to help me decide which size to cut out. Looking at the images of many of the versions out there, I started to feel that perhaps it wasn't really 'me', and therefore a risky choice for the rather precious piece of fabric I planned to use. I'm pretty sure I'll use that pattern at some point, but at this stage, the search for a great cardi pattern resumed.

It didn't take me long to think of the Jenna cardi pattern. A quick google search brought up many many versions, ALL of which I loved. We had a winner!


Style options: It was difficult to decide which combo of features to make; do I go for hip or waist length, plain or gathered yoke shoulders, full-length or 3/4-length sleeves? It's still bloody cold and damp here at the moment, and my fabric is on the thicker end of what would be suitable for this pattern, so I decided to go for the most coverage: hip length with full length sleeves. I adore the gathered yoke shoulder detail variation included in this pattern, but I thought it might not be very noticeable with a fabric that has a busy design, so I promised myself that I'll try that option next time and keep things plain for now.

Alterations and fitting: There were some fit issues that I encountered, which is not a criticism of the drafting, more some personal changes that I need to make to suit my body and style preferences. I can see a long term relationship developing with the Jenna cardi pattern so I (uncharacteristically) bothered to physically write a list of tweaks and alterations that I'm going to make for my next version:
  • For this version I cut the size 36 which related most closely to my measurements. I found that the shoulders were way too broad, it kind of looked more like a jacket than a cardigan, so I shaved off some of the armscye with my overlocker. Next time I think I'll actually blend between the size 34 for above the bust (including the sleeve) and the size 36 for below the bust, as the rest of the fit is pretty spot on time terms of dimensions. 
  • The jacket-effect was exemplified by how wide the sleeves came out. I pinched out and shaved 2 cm off the sleeve width (so about 4 cm in total per sleeve) from the cuff to about level with the elbow. Next time, as mentioned above, I'll start with the size 34 sleeve and then see if further width needs to be removed depending on my choice of fabric for the next version. 
  • The sleeves were comically long. Well, actually they weren't but they would have been. This is because I tried on the work-in-progree to check the fit before the cuff bands were added, and at that point I could easily have just hemmed the sleeves and called it done because they were so long. However, I really like the look of cuff bands, so I removed 6 cm from the sleeve length before adding them. 
  • I didn't make this alteration on this first version, but I think there's something a bit extreme and angle-y about the side seam shaping, particularly where it meets the waist band. I'll address that by smoothing that curve and angle out a bit going forwards. I also might make a really boxy version at some point that has little-to-no shaping around the waist at all.  


Ah, cutting into this fabric was hard! It's been languishing in my stash for about three years, having scored it second hand. It was almost as precious to me as the striped stuff that became my 1960's Breton top and equally difficult to know what to do with. Spurred on by the success after finally using the stripy stuff, I felt it was probably also time to set this one 'free'! I'm pretty sure this fabric was some kind of sample length, but it didn't come with any kind of label or tag so I have no idea what it is comprised of. I do know that it's some kind of stable double-knit with a woven-in (rather than printed) leopard print design and has a really lovely, soft feel. 

This fabric could have become many things, but seeing as I wear cardigans every day it made so much sense to use it for that purpose. It would be a real shame to make this fabric into a garment that doesn't get worn hardly ever so it isn't enjoyed to the fullest.


I haven't worn this cardigan yet but I'm pleased to have it in my arsenal. Me-Made-May will help me figure out how to incorporate it into my current wardrobe and which outfits I feel it works best in. I'm excited to use this pattern again, and my head is brimming with ideas for it, like adding piping round the shoulder yoke when I make that version, or making a must wider button stand to use some of the epic larger buttons in my stash. Boringly, I had to buy the plain back buttons that feature on this leopard print version, as I don't have many sets of eight or more buttons.

What about you? Are you in the throws or on the brink of a long-term relationship with a particular sewing pattern? Hmm, maybe this'll be my One Week One Pattern contender next time... 

Friday, 17 April 2015

Me-Made-May'15: My Pledge

(Can I convince myself that wearing a denim skirt is just like wearing jeans?!)

Ok here goes....

'I, Zoe of 'So, Zo... What Do You Know?', sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to wear as many me-made garments as possible each day for the duration of May 2015. Plus I will wear a skirt or dress five days per week'.

(Will the weather permit the wearing of a bright yellow sailor skirt?)

There, I did it. I will permit myself to wear some of my secondhand cardigans sparingly (because so far I only have one self-made cardigan which I'll blog about in a few days time). I won't permit myself to wear my secondhand jeans or jeggings because I want to get out of the wardrobe rut I've found myself in by following the daily formula of: jeans/jeggings + knit top + cardigan. 

(Will this 'abandoned bandstand in the foliage' print curtain skirt make me feel mental?) 

Pushing myself to make more use of my skirts and dresses is going to be tough, because I don't tend to feel as comfortable in them as I do in jeans. I'm hoping I can come up with different ways to wear my skirt and dress selection that will change how I feel in them. I don't want to own any items of clothing that don't get at least a few wears each year (very special and very seasonal garments being the exceptions), so I need to find ways to incorporate them into regular rotation or I'll have to part with them and stop myself from making more! I was pretty brutal recently and got rid of some skirts that, even though I had a bit of sentimental attachment to them. I have no regrets and I'm now left with only six skirts (all of which are pictured in this post). 

(Will the stripy Mabel skirt start to feel like the 't-shirt wrapped round my bum' that I had hoped for?)

To go with my skirts and dresses, I did consider making some tights using Marilla's tights pattern, but a recent sort out of my undies drawer unearthed a squillion pairs of tights already so it wouldn't be a good use of my limited sewing time at this point.

(Will this bow detail high waisted denim skirt prove just the ticket for teaching in?)

The challenge will generally be a great opportunity to dig out some hidden me-mades and try to find out why they don't get worn very often, and if there's anything I can do about that. I'm really excited to get going and make this a valuable challenge. I've really enjoyed reading each pledge as they've pinged into my inbox. If you are taking part, or planning to take part, did you/are you finding it difficult to come up with a useful pledge to challenge yourself with?

(Will I feel less like I'm at a children's birthday party in the nautical Cressida skirt?)

Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Kid's Clothes Week Sewalong April 2015: Wild Things!

Second only to Me-Made-May, Kid's Clothes Week (KCW) is now firmly my favourite sewing community occasion! For me, I find it's a great way to actually get round to creating some of the squillions of projects that I carry round in my head. I really like this season's theme and intend to follow it, although I'm pretty sure it's not compulsory to do so. 'Wild Things' could be taken in so many directions and I'm excited to see how the rest of the KCW community interpret it. This post on their blog in particular has some wonderfully inventive ways to incorporate aspects of animals into wearable children's clothing. Also, I think this is a great theme because it's likely to get the children themselves really engaged in what they are having made for them. My eighteen-month-old, Dolores, has just started pointing at and naming animals, and has started noticing the dogs printed on her pyjamas, for example. As much as I obviously adored the Upcycling KCW challenge, I think this one has more scope for making fun for the kids themselves.

Personally, I've already got a few projects planned that I'm hoping to complete by sewing for at least one hour per day between 20th - 26th April. I've been doing some prep, like tracing pattern pieces and even doing some cutting out, so I've got more chance of getting the sewing completed by the end of the week. I'm taking the theme in a couple of directions, and I'm excited to show you what I come up with!

Tuesday, 31 March 2015

Me-Made-May'15! SIGN UP HERE

Yes indeed my friends, here it is! 2015's official Me-Made challenge that celebrates all the love and hard work that so many of us put into crafting unique, special handmade clothing and accessories. If you want to improve your relationship with your me-made items, then this challenge is for you!

What is Me-Made-May'15?

Me-Made-May'15 (#mmmay15 for social media interaction) is a challenge designed to encourage people who sew/knit/crochet/refashion/upcycle garments for themselves to actually wear and love them. The me-made and self-stitched challenges have been taking place for five years now and they work on both a personal and community level. The participants decide the specifics of their own challenge pledge, so that the month is appropriate and challenging for them (more on this below). For example, a very common pledge is for a participant to aim to wear one self-stitched or refashioned garment each day for the duration of May 2015. The participants can also choose to document their challenge with daily photos (though this is in no way compulsory for taking part) and share them with other participants (more on this below).

What isn't Me-Made-May'15? 
  • The Me-Made-May challenges are NOT all about taking daily outfit photographs. However, many participants do choose to document their challenge with daily/weekly/as-often-as-you-like photos and share them on their blog if they have one or on Flickr or Pinterest if they are a member. The challenge is about wearing your handmade clothing more often than you usually do, if you choose to take documentation photos, then that is fabulous and we'd love to see 'em, but taking photos isn't necessary or compulsory and really isn't the point of the challenge. 
  • Me-Made-May also isn't reason to panic-sew/make anything. This challenge is about wearing the items that you have already created, not about stock-piling more makes. However, if you want to use taking part in the challenge as the kick in the butt you need to finally hem that half-finished skirt, or rework an ill-fitting garment, then great. Remember, this challenge is meant to be fun, and panic-anything isn't fun! 
  • A competition. It doesn't matter how many self-stitched items you already have or haven't. You can take part even if you just have one solitary self-made item! You just need to set your pledge to make it challenging for YOU, no matter what criteria other participants have set themselves. 

I haven't taken part in any of these before, why should I take part?

Ohh, there are squillions of reasons why you might choose take part! They may include:
  • Do your handmade items often get left in the wardrobe rather than worn as part of your everyday wardrobe? Participating in this challenge can give you a bit of a nudge to help you to integrate your self-stitched items into your daily life.
  • This challenge may also be useful for discovering the 'holes' in your wardrobe so in the future you are able to focus your precious garment-creating time towards making things that will be useful. 
  • If you feel that what you tend to wear, day-to-day, doesn't really suit you or represent who you are, this challenge is a way to spend a month focussing on getting out of your wardrobe rut
  • You may enjoy an excuse to focus on finishing off lingering UFOs (un-finished objects), or to start a project you've had on your mind for ages. 
  • If you have been creating clothing for some time and already wear a lot of your me-mades, this challenge might help you to bring newer self-stitched items into regular rotation. If you tend to make all kinds of garments, you may even want to see if you can get by all month entirely without shop-bought garments.
  • There is also guaranteed to be a lovely online community of fellow participants to give support, advice and inspiration.

I've taken part in these in the past, why should I take part this year?

Did you enjoy it last time/the previous times you took part?
  • If the answer is 'Yes': Then you'll have lots of fun again this year, whilst challenging yourself in a different way and learning something new about yourself and your style/skills/preferences/wardrobe. You just need to think about how you can alter and/or amp up your pledge specifics to get the most out of this year's challenge.
  • If the answer is 'No': Well if that's a 'no' because the challenge you set yourself was too hard, then that is easily rectified this time round; set your pledge so that it is tricky but do-able. If it's a 'no' because you didn't enjoy the pressure you felt to take photos each day, then simply don't worry about documenting your challenge with photos. You'll learn lots of lessons and get satisfaction from taking part in the challenge and completing your pledge, not from the documentation of it (although some participants have found that seeing the daily images of themselves has really helped them figure out what suits them and what doesn't work so well). If you'd like to do a little bit of documenting, then why not just photograph your favourite outfit/garment you wore at the end of the week, or some other version that doesn't make you feel under pressure. But seriously, if you didn't like taking part in it and don't want to try again, fair enough! 

Ok, you've convinced me, how do I sign up?

All you have to do is copy the pledge below and post it in the comments section of this post adapted to include your details and the personal specification of your challenge before 1st May:

 'I, (insert name here and blog address if you have one), sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to wear......................................................... each day for the duration of May 2015'

Points to consider when creating your pledge:
  • This is YOUR challenge, write the pledge any way you want, just remember: IT IS A CHALLENGE and not meant to be easy or what you do usually. In the past I have received the odd comment saying 'Oh, I already do this so I may as well sign up', however those people had clearly missed the point which is to challenge yourself, and therefore they would be unlikely to learn very much or feel much satisfaction at the end of the month. 
  • THIS IS NOT A COMPETITION. It is a personal attempt to achieve a better relationship with your handmade creations, which you may or may not choose to share with the creative online community. What I mean is, don't set a pledge that you've seen other people make that sounds good but in reality is unobtainable for you and your lifestyle. For example, if you have to wear a uniform for work each day, you may prefer to pledge to wear self-stitched items at the weekends or days off only. 
  • There's no rush to sign up immediately, as long as you do so before 1st May. Have a think for a while about your current relationship with your creations, then think how you might want to improve that relationship.
  • If you have taken part before, or already wear a fair amount of self-made clothing and/or accessories, think how you can up the ante from the standard 'one self-stitched garment a day' pledge. How about wearing two or more self-made garments each day? Or pledge to try making a new type of garment by the end of the month to wear on the final day? Or pledge to finish all your UFO's by 31st May? Pledge to focus on wearing your 'meh' garments to see if you can fall back in love with some of them? Pledge to only wear separates to force yourself to get creative with your mix-and-matching? Pledge to only wear each garment or garment-combo once? Pledge to wear an outfit including one sewn or knitted garment AND one refashion each day? There are near-infinite ways to amp things up for yourself. 
If you have a blog, why not re-post your pledge there so your readers and followers can see what you are up to and be inspired by your endeavour? Please include a link to this post so others can also sign-up if they are interested. If there's one thing I've learnt from these challenges, the more people involved, the better the party!

I've signed up, what do I do now then?

Nothing in particular until 1st May 20145, except let an underlying sense of excitement brew! You may decide to finish up that UFO, but please people, NO PANIC-SEWING/MAKING NECESSARY OR CONDONED!!

If you would like to advertise your participation on your blog if you have one, why not treat yourself to the addition of the Me-Made-May'15 widget/gadget/button? The code can be found at the top of the right hand column of this blog's home page. The widget/gadget/button not only looks cute, but it shows other participants/potential-participants at a glance that you are taking part this year. Plus when clicked on, it will ping you to this sign-up post so others can read what this whole damn thing is about without you needing to go into too much of an explanation yourself. If you aren't sure how to apply/insert a widget/gadget/button code, check this post for explanations for Blogspot/Blogger and Wordpress blogs.

How do I interact with other participants throughout the challenge?

If you would like to see what other participants are up to throughout the month and/or show others how you are getting on then there are several ways to do so. 
  • Blogs. If you have a blog, then why not tell/show your readers what you are up to? Reading about others' experiences of these challenges is always so interesting and often useful. If you'd like to discover some blogs of other participants, you will be able to find lots by looking through the comments section of this sign-up post. Some participants like to post their outfit photos on their blogs, and remember if you want to do that but don't have the time or desire to post daily, you could post more manageable summaries once or twice a week, which I prefer to do, or even just at the end of the month.
  • Flickr. If you wish to be a part of the Me-Made-May'15 Flickr group, head over there and request membership. I'll 'let you in' within two days so you can begin posting your outfits/garments from 1st May. If you wish to start a discussion over there before 1st May, please feel free to do so! If you choose not to sign up to the Flickr group, you will still be able to see all the photos added by other participants and read the discussions being had over there, however you will not be able to comment on the photos or add to the discussions. The Flickr groups are always heaps of fun and such a lovely way to see lots of participants all in one go participating in different countries and climates. Plus it can be a fabulous way to discover new inspirational bloggers and blogs to follow, and generally make some new e-friends!
  • Pinterest. After the popularity of last year's, this year we have a Me-Made-May'15 Pinterest board. To pin your garment/outfit pictures on there, you will need to 'follow' the board. It'll take up to two days for you to be allowed access, so don't panic if you can't pin on there immediately. Please add the #mmmay15 hashtag to your pins. 
  • Twitter and Instagram. It would also be totally ace if Twitter and Instagram users posted about and discussed the challenge using the #mmmay15 hashtag.

Anything else I should know?

!!!! This challenge is meant to be explorative, illuminating and beneficial, but above that it's meant to be fun! Getting dressed can often be fun, and if you haven't felt any clothes-based fun for a while, why not see if this challenge can help inject some of that back? 'Hanging out' online with the other participants can be a big part of that fun by seeing what they are wearing (either by visiting their personal blogs or through the Flickr group, Pinterest board or via Twitter and Instagram) and by sharing your own unique take on this challenge.

If you are concerned or confused about any aspect of this challenge, please email me at sozoblog (at) g mail (dot) com.

Let the signing up commence!!!!!

Sunday, 29 March 2015

Stripy Mabel Skirt: Take Two!

Alrighty. So the saga of the stripy Mabel skirt continues... You may or may not recall that I made a knee length version in this black and white synthetic double knit back in January. I was concerned that it was too tight and too long, and would end up getting constantly over-looked when deciding what to wear. I was debating about what to do about it; do I simply shorten the version I'd made or to I remake the whole damn thing adding width to the thigh area? 

I forced myself to wear it a couple of times and came to the conclusion that it was definitely too tight and not enjoyable to wear. Taking the hem up a bit wasn't going to be enough to make it something I'd reach for regularly, so I found the remnants of the fabric and cut myself out another, shorter version (though not as short as the pattern's short version) with about 1.5 cm added to each side seam around the thigh. I was able to unpick and reuse my take one's waistband and facing which made my take two a little quicker to construct. 

So how does the second version fare? It's definitely better. I've worn it a couple of times and it doesn't feel restrictive anymore. I'm not in love with how it sits on the waist though. Perhaps it could be improved by tightening it up a bit or even exaggerating the curve of the back waistband, but I feel that those potential solutions would make getting it on and off difficult. I can't help but think that eliminating the curved waistband idea entirely and creating an elasticated waist would feel generally more secure. 

Although this second version is much better than the first and will see some wear for sure, at present it's still not the comfy-as-wearing-T-shirt-round-your-bum plan I had in mind for a knit skirt! Ideally I was going for something I could wear to play groups and mess around in without a second thought, but I do find myself somewhat conscious of this skirt (as I feel in all skirts to be fair) and have to readjust how it is sitting from time to time. I don't think I'll make another Mabel skirt, but at some point I may use it as a basis to draft an elasticated waist knit skirt pattern, which is probably what I should have done in the first place. I'm sorry that I wasn't able to get a pic of the second version actually being worn. Trying to get one actually delayed me in publishing this post, but with #mmmay15 just round the corner, I figured you'll see it worn (hopefully!) soon enough to get an idea of the fit!

Well, I wasn't going to waste the first version of this skirt, was I?! Using my go-to baby/toddler Playful Kitty leggings pattern, I cut the biggest size (size 92) as I wanted to get maximum use of the remaining fabric after the waistband had been removed. Dolores probably won't fit these for at least a year, but that's totally fine as I've made heaps of leggings for her for the nearer future, and have plans for many more pairs of stretchy bottoms in the pipeline. 

I attempted to make this version of the leggings pattern more interesting to make for myself by adding these appliquéd heart knee patches. The hearts are made from tiny scraps of the T-shirting left over from the retro running shorts and are adhered to the leggings with double sided bondaweb. Usually when I do  appliqué, I fuse some interfacing to the back of the area before satin-stitching round the edge of the shape, but I skipped that step this time as I didn't want to make them restrictive with too much bulk so that she can't easily bend her knees! It meant that the hearts looked a bit wavy and not as flat as they would do if I'd applied interfacing, but a good old press with the iron elimated most of the wobbly effect.

Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Brindille and Twig Free Raglan Hoodie Pattern

Who doesn't like free stuff?! I know I do! Especially when the free stuff in question is sewing patterns. A lot of pattern designers release free products and I'm guessing for a variety of reasons. Some do it to showcase their drafting and instruction writing skills, some want to garner Facebook 'likes' and newsletter sign-ups. And some do so just to get something 'out there' without the extra pressure that would be heaped on top if the products were to be bought (which was very much my own motivation when I released my free patterns). 

Having been crushing pretty hard on Brindille and Twig designs recently (see my independent children's sewing pattern post here), I was thrilled to learn that they had released a free pattern for download. Particularly because I really can't justify buying any new patterns at the moment whilst I have so many children's sewing patterns already in my possession that I haven't used yet and cash is tight at the moment, in no small part due to the recent demise of my last sewing machine and the purchase of another. 


The free raglan hoodie pattern is great because it'll look super cute on both boys and girls. The options for clever combinations with contrast cuffs and hem bands, hood lining, sleeves and shoulder seam detail are near-endless so you could make this pattern up lots of times and it always look like an entirely different garment. 

I was thoroughly impressed with both the drafting and the instructions. The latter were as clear, bright and easy to understand at the website lead me to expect. I made the size 90, which indicates the height in cms and is meant to correspond roughly to 18-24 months. Dolores is almost 18 months now but I was expecting it to be way too big as she measures 81 cm at the moment. I was happy with that as I thought it would be fine for her at the end of the year going into autumn, however it actually fits her well now. 

I used my regular sewing machine to apply and topstitch the front pocket and to baste on the shoulder seam detail strips, and my overlocker for everything else. It was a little more involved than my usual knit projects for Dolores, but that was almost entirely because I was trying to match the stripes at various points. One negative thing I have to say about this pattern is that the seam allowance is a scant 6 mm / 1/4". I would have liked it to be at least 8 mm, preferably 1 cm, as I think that would have made including the shoulder seam detail easier and in general I like to shave off a bit when sewing with my overlocker rather than trying to position the raw edges so that nothing gets trimmed away at all. I also think such a tiny seam allowance might be make a beginner sewer balk a bit when otherwise it's a pretty easy, beginner-friendly pattern. 


The pattern recommends this pattern be made in medium weight knit fabric, like cotton/lycra jersey or french terry. In that case I assumed regular sweatshirt knit would be too thick and bulky, but personally I didn't feel a jersey would have the right look or weight for a hoodie. I'm happy with the compromise I found in this organic cotton interlock. Interlock knit is effectively twice the thickness of jersey but behaves in a similar way. It has the right look for this little hoodie but with the correct amount of stretch required by the pattern. I had a small piece in my stash left over from making a Moneta dress for Annie, owner of the Village Haberdashery. They don't seem to have it in stock at the moment, but you can see it on their website here, and they have similar available. 

This organic interlock is ridiculously soft and cosy. Having already made a pair of leggings for Dolores in it, I knew that it would be appropriate for children's wear, but I also knew that it will grow a bit as the garment gets worn and laundered as it has no lycra/elastane/spandex content to keep it taut. Knowing that this hoodie is going to get a bit bigger over time and usage actually feel like a plus in this instance, as the hoodie's lifespan will increase as it grows along with her for a while!

Matching the stripes at the side seams, on the pocket, across the hood curve and a bit at the shoulder seams gave me a mild headache, but it was worth it for a nice, neat looking that my mother-in-law said 'looks like something you'd buy in the shops'!  

Keeping the organic theme going, the hood lining and shoulder seam detail strips are made cut from some cream jersey (actually it may also be interlock know I think about it) from Offset Warehouse that I was given to try out for free last year. It's the same stuff I used to make this breast-feeding friendly Coco top and these fancy pants.

The pattern suggests cutting the cuffs and hem band from rib knit or 'other stretchy stuff'. I decided to use the same stripy interlock but with the stripes going in the other direction. The cuffs actually came out quite a bit tighter than I was expecting and I was prepared to remake them a bit wider, but once she tried the hoodie on I found that they are actually fine. 


In general I love this pattern and the finished garment I made for Dolores. But for a fully balanced review I will share all my niggles, even though they are pretty tiny ones. So, aside from the seam allowance issue, I also think the neck hole is a bit too wide. If I am making the next size up next time, I will probably still use the neck hole and hood from the size 90. I will also stitch a row of stay-stitching around the neck hole just incase any stretching occurs and baste the hood onto the neck with my regular machine before going over the seam with my overlocker, incase I stretched it out a bit by stitching the hood on only with my overlocker as the instructions directed.

I also think the shoulder detail strips should have been a tiny bit wider. It annoys me that they are slightly narrower than the white stripes of the interlock. This is my fault for cutting the too narrow, but it was also hampered by trying to attach them within the tiny 6mm seam allowance.  
But as I say, overall I'm extremely pleased with this make. Plus I'm happy to have acted upon my recent musings that I need to stop making Dolores light-weight clothing and summer dresses and instead focus more on things that she will not be restricted in at all and are more suitable for our climate. I'm very grateful to Melissa from Brindille and Twig for sharing this pattern for free. I was more than happy to hand over a Facebook 'like' and sign up to the newsletter in exchange for it! I'm sure I'll make many more of these in the future when appropriate fabric comes onto my radar. 
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